Half AnElephantCant stay away from France

The northern plains of France are often described as flat and boring.

Personally, we find the vast, gently undulating area to be a peaceful rustic idyll – a reflection of your correspondent .

Travelling by train from Calais to Amiens, we see miles of wheat fields with their myriad shades of greens and browns, scatterings of meadows with grazing horses and cattle, usually whitish Charolais or black and white Friesian; isolated villages with houses clustered around the spire of a church; flourishing hedgerows and trees standing alone or in small clusters, typically on higher ground, as a means of preventing erosion.

Our train is run by TER SNCF, a branch of the French National Railways. They have a great slogan  – ter mer, ter vert.

In other words take the train to the seaside or to the country.

The trains are clean, fast and punctual and even have an upstairs! How good is that?

Amiens is a beautiful city with a population of around 135,000, similar to that of Dundee. It is the capital of the Department of Somme, in the Picardy region,

and is best known for its 13^th century Gothic church, one of the 3 ‘classical’ French cathedrals, and the largest in France.

(It even gets a mention en passant in the best-selling novel The Da Vinci Code).

The main part of the town centre runs from the cathedral southwards, and is the usual inspiring mixture of architectural styles, including neo-Gothic and Second Empire (Victorian) with its mansard roofs among a plethora of half-timbering, wrought iron work and wooden slatted shutters.

To the north of the cathedral and along the banks of the Somme and its canals lies Saint Leu, a recently renovated area of wood and brick houses also hosting restaurants and bars. Sitting in early evening sunshine outside a waterside café with a pre-prandial pastis watching the ducks is still one of life’s great pleasures.

Somewhat embarrassingly, your correspondent contrived to totally miss the unique Ches Cabotans, a puppet show performed in the ancient but still very extant Picard language. Tant pis!

The parks and gardens to the North and East of Saint Leu are an absolute joy. Bordered on the south and west by the Somme, containing marshlands drained by a network of canals, the Parc de Beauville also has two etangs, or large ponds, providing a sanctuary for a host of waterfowl and other birds. The small islands created from the reclaimed marshlands are cultivated into gardens or hortillonnages, utilising a process known as paillage, which we believe to be a kind of mulching. The canals themselves abound with water-lilies and reeds.

Among the more famous inhabitants of Amiens was Jules Verne, who married a local girl, served on the council and died in the town in 1905, aged 77. A pioneer of science fiction and the author of such classics as Around the World in 80 Days, Journey to the Centre of the Earth and 20,000 Leagues under the Sea, he is reckoned to be the second most translated author of all time after Agatha Christie.

One of the features of the town that we find most pleasing is the conversion of one of the many squares into a summer play area for children. Entitled Amiens-les-bains, it contains an artificial beach and a temporary pool large enough for children to swim in. In addition there is a trampoline, Bouncy Castle and assortment of table games, all under careful supervision.

What a great idea to amuse les enfants during the hot summer days.

Only two days here, but hugely interesting, educational and enjoyable.

Brian Cairnduff, AnElephantCant

Writer, Brian Cairnduff from Helensburgh and artist Phil Burns, are the creative engine of children’s publishing company AnElephantCant and of the interior design business, waje, now staging an exhibition of Phil Burns’ early artwork at the Portsonachan Hotel on Loch Awe – until 30th September 2010.