Voyage to Murmansk: a convoy of memories
published this on 11:53 am, Thursday, 8th October, 2009Arctic Convoys| Film & film making| News| defence | Comments (rss) | Respond | Ping |

Take a 16 year old cabin boy with the New Zealand Shipping Company who became a 60s pop singer and party animal capable of leaving the Rolling Stones standing.
Add a sprinkling of veterans of the World War II Arctic Convoys, a ship called Discovery and a patron saint of lost things and navigators.
Then throw in the navies of two countries, 7 Russian TV crews, a Russian-speaking Scottish veteran, disbelieving dignitaries from the British Embassy in Moscow and more inexplicable, if not supernatural, coincidences than you’d dare invent.
And you’re not half way there.
This is a big story – one, in part, beyond reason.
Strange beginnings
Des Cox, now a documentary film maker and director, was that cabin boy cum half of EMI’s 60s singing duo, Des & Dave, later working on the legendary Candid Camera prankfest with Jonathan Routh.
As a seafarer, he had an ambition to make a documentary on the experiences of those earlier seamen who had sailed on the crucial supply convoys to the north coast of Russia during the second Word War.
He began to plan, to do research, to make the contacts, to ask for help from the armed forces and diplomatic services of the various nations involved. The obstacles were high and every one he confronted spawned more.
Sitting in a town square in Palermo, on a voyage connected to another project, he was on the brink of giving up. While coming to the point of decision he was taking video film of the square while his colleague David Hutchings was taking stills. In the square was a statue of San Antonino who later turned out to be the patron Saint of lost things and – an appropriate twin responsibility – of navigators.
When they got back to the ship, the two men downloaded the shots they’d taken and were astonished, in a still shot, to see the head of the statue bathed in a strange warm light, almost a glow. There was no natural explanation for the phenomenon and Des Cox went on to have the photograph checked out at digital laboratories for confirmation that the image had not been in any way retouched.
But before then, as the ship left Palermo, everything started to go right with his Atlantic Convoy project.
A woman approached him on the ship. Her husband, who was also aboard, was a convoy veteran – Stanley Colvin. In fact Mr Colvin had sailed on the very first convoy, taking two squadrons of RAF pilots and their crews to Russia to help them defend Murmansk.
All Des Cox had to hand was a personal, not a professional, video camera. It was summer. The ship was in the Mediterranean. The skies were blue, without a cloud in sight. This was hardly the context in which he had imagined recording the memories of a Convoy veteran. But Stanley Colvin was there, he was willing to talk and the job needed to be done.
Stand by for more mysterious coincidences.
As the old man walked to take position at the seaward side of the deck, a heavy fog suddenly shrouded the sun. The thick, chill grey and the short visibility immediately conjured conditions familiar to sailors on the convoys.
Stanley Colvin talked, his voice restored to clarity and confidence, telling how his ship – one of 5 in an unescorted convoy- had been spotted by a German reconnaissance plane. This always presaged an attack by U-boats, surface warships and aircraft, an attack they couldn’t possibly survive.
As Mr Colvin spoke, right in the centre of the picture, immediately in front of them, an old submarine suddenly surfaced, just as an attacking WW2 German U-boat would have done – and shortly afterwards vanished into the fog without responding to ship-to-ship communication.
There were other astonishing and poignant coincidences that we will find a way of telling alongside this story. But a major change for Des Cox was that as soon as he got home he was almost besieged by a stream of communications from all of the international authorities he had been trying to persuade to cooperate on his Arctic Convoy documentary. They would all help.
Was someone steering a passage through the reefs?
Discovery to discovery – the voyage to Murmansk
A man whose partying left the Stones for dead was never likely to take the short route to making this docmentary.
Knowing that the memory, however sharp, sheds detail as the years move on, Des Cox hit upon the largest of large schemes. He would take some veterans of the Russian convoys back – in reality, by sea and to Murmansk.
He felt that these conditions and this experience were bound to unleash memories sealed in another time.
He booked 200 of the 600 berths on the MV Discovery – for 6-8 Arctic Convoy veterans and their families in company with veterans from other convoys, like those to Malta and the Far East.
On 19th July 2009, as the MV Discovery prepared to set sail from Harwich, a Royal Navy bugler signalled the hoisting of over fifty very rare house flags – the greatest display of such flags in the world. Each one represented shipping companies from all over the globe that once operated ships sailing on those vital and deadly wartime convoys.

As the ship left the quayside at Harwich, local tugs, dressed overall, came out to pay their respects with a water display as, together with a Royal Navy vessel – the P Class HMS Tracker – they escorted Discovery out to sea. The pride on the faces of all those convoy veterans, at this respect paid to their service, is something Des Cox can never forget.
On passage, the veterans had the run of the ship and the bridge, some even taking the helm for the first time since the reason they were on the Discovery. Their sea legs and their memories returned in tandem. And the cameras rolled.
Then, in the far north, as the ship sailed east into Russian waters, a Russia warship appeared to greet them, a signal of the VIP welcome ahead.
On the way into Murmansk, Discovery passed several other Russian warships at anchor. As she passed alongside a large aircraft carrier, the ship’s band struck up and her crew lined her flight-deck in tribute to the veterans and the visit.
Other music from another source began to drown out that from the carrier’s band. On the quayside, as Discovery came in to dock, was a full military band, surrounded by no fewer than 7 TV news crews from stations across Russia, all waiting to greet her honoured passengers. Des Cox describes the day that followed as ‘a mini State Occasion’.
The Russian ceremonies
As the ship berthed the weather performed another unexpected half revolution, as it had done earlier when Cox was about to film Stanley Colvin. This time the cold grey Arctic mist cleared in place of sun and blue skies. It could have been the Mediterranean.
The veterans’ party was driven in a fleet of coaches, each with its own police escort, lights flashing – to the memorial to the Great Patriotic War, high on the hills above Murmansk. It too was was now bathed in sunshine.

Waiting there to receive them, amidst a gala of multi-colourful flags, were more military bands, a full guard of honour, Russian WW2 veterans and a host of top politicians and military VIPs. These included the Governor of the Murmansk region, the Mayor of Murmansk, the Admiral of the Russian Northern Fleet – and representatives from the British Embassy in Moscow, gratifyingly dumbstruck at what was happening.
It was a once-in-a-lifetime did-it-really-happen, one of the most colourful and emotional moments possible. It had been made possible by Des Cox, working alone. Talk about ‘the power of one’.

Now was the time for the speeches. First came the Russian delegation. Then the response from the veterans’ party. The translator approached Des Cox, as the leader of the group, to offer his services. Cox shook his head and pointed to one of the veterans, who was to do the honours. The translator was clearly worried that the demands of such an occasion would be too much for an elderly man.
But Cox knew Jock Dempster – as will those who saw him pictured as they read the For Argyll report of the international Tribute to the Arctic Convoy veterans arranged by the Harrison family at Pool House at Loch Ewe in October 2008. And Cox and Dempster were about to spring a surprise of their own.

As his name was called and the wiry, dauntlessly erect figure of the elderly man stepped to the microphone, the crowds stilled, silent, nervous even.
In Cox’s words: ‘Jock lifted his shoulders and started to speak…in perfectly clear and fluent Russian.
‘It took about a minute for it to register with the crowd, such was the shock. On behalf of Des Cox and the veterans, Jock paid heartfelt thanks to the Russians in their own language for all they had done – for their welcome on this day and for the sacrifices, huge beyond imagining, that they had made in WW2, without which that dreadful War would never have been won.

‘It is doubtful if the Russians had ever received such wholehearted gratitude before. There wasn’t a dry eye to be seen. The emotion was overwhelming’.
This was a day when strong men of several nations cried together, touched by shared remembrance, grief and joy.
The ceremony in the Barents Sea – and the weather’s last strange turn
Cox’s plan was to hold a service of remembrance on Discovery’s open decks off the Northern tip of Norway. The shipping company was against it on the grounds of safety. Although it was summer time, the weather in the Barents Sea is cold, damp and windy. The combination of chill with rolling decks as the ship responded to wind-whipped waves was deemed too great a risk for elderly men.

But, again, just a couple of hours before the service was to be held inside, the weather suddenly lifted, revealing bright sunshine, blue skies and a windless deck. An RAF Nimrod, out from RAF Kinloss in Perthshire, passed overhead in tribute. Discovery was dressed overall. Everyone on board attended. Hymns were sung.

Then, as a bugler sounded The Last Post, the ship’s Red Ensign was lowered, wreathes were cast into the sea and twenty-thousand poppies showered down over the decks of the ship.
A class-ridden Government, eventually and grudgingly, had given the merchant seamen of the Arctic Convoys the physically insignificant Arctic Star lapel button in return for their sacrifice.
Des Cox, on behalf of a nation marching to a different drum, gave these representatives of those heroic actions and of all their fellows lost in action and to time, a unique experience marking international recognition of their contribution to freedom.
Justice was done.
Back in that square in Palermo, we’ll never know if a fleeting smile passed across the face of San Antonino, patron Saint of lost things and navigators, who seemed to have had a hand in all of this.
Over the next week, For Argyll will publish – and link here at the foot of this astonishing story, a summary of Stanley Colvin’s narrative, with yet another strange conclusion; and an account of Des Cox’s own colourful career. Keep an eye here for these linked stories to arrive.
We will also announce when the documentary being made by Des Cox’s company, Snowbow, is being aired. We understand that it has already been booked to air on Russian television stations.
The photograph above of San Antonio was taken by copyright holder, David Hutchings. The other photographs accompanying this article are by copyright holder, Des Cox . None may not be reproduced without permission.
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October 22nd, 2009 at 7:57 pm
[...] Jock Dempster, Chairman of the Scottish branch of the Russian Convoy Club, along with no more than a handful of his colleages who survived the Arctic Convoys, has had the unique experience of visiting their destination at Murmansk on two very different occasions. The first was his own first Convoy to the far north. The second was an extraordinary voyage in July 2009, arranged by Des Cox of Snowbow Productions and on which we have reported: Voyage to Murmansk: a convoy of memories. [...]
November 14th, 2009 at 10:00 pm
Des & Ulla
Thank you so much for all the very hard work you both put in to make the trip to Murmansk such a memorable, moving, poignant yet very enjoyable experience.
My wife and I will never forget it and the way everything went like clockwork. We will always remember the royal way the Russians treated us in Murmansk. Even stopping the traffic to let our coaches through.
The service on the after deck of Discovery was especially moving and the weather so good to us. Much different I am sure to that usually experienced by the convoy verterans during WWll.
I, fortunately, was too young to have been involved in the convoys myself but do remember my Uncle, who was attached to the Norwegian Navy, telling me as a boy of his experiences which I suppose in some way contributed to my wanting to go to sea myself.
We are very much looking forward to our next trip on Discovery around the UK and to meeting again many friends made on the Artic trip
Thanks once again and also in advance for your organisation of the round Britain trip next June.
John (ex B.P. Radio Officer) & Patricia Stocking
November 16th, 2009 at 1:03 am
It was a great privilage to be apart of this experince and to represent The Artic Convoy Association of Western Australia and meet with fellow seafarers .Well done Des+Ulla Wayne /Joan Whitehead
November 16th, 2009 at 1:06 am
Well Done it was great
November 16th, 2009 at 11:04 pm
Dear Sirs or Madam, I wonder if it could be permitted for me to have the photos of the meeting of the Russians and Arctic Veterns of which I was part of on that so momentous voyage up there to MURMANSK,not as a veteran but as one who was paying respects to the many seaman and aircraft personnel who lost their lives in that theatre of war. Dez Cox and myself have a dual partneship in that we both went to the same seaschool the VINDICATRIX in Gloucestershire many years ago.
I must reiterate the words spoken by so many people about our voyage in that the Russians treated us as visiting royalty.
I hope this request is given as my brother who was representing the Royal Navy was seen to be upholding the great tradition of flag bearer. and was in many of the photos
Thanking you Regards Bob Andrews British Merchant Navy Port Line 1950/ 60
November 17th, 2009 at 12:00 am
For Mr Robert Andrews: We’ll do all we can to help on this. Do you want permission to copy the photographs from the website articles or… what have you in mind? Would you identify which photos you want? And have you read Jock Dempster’s article on the website: T’wo voyages to Murmansk: hell and healing’. There are other photographs with that article of the events at Murmansk this summer. Let us know what you want and we’ll take it from there.
Would you also also identify your brother for us in one of two of the photographs in which he appears. It would be good to have his name and to know something about him.
November 17th, 2009 at 4:05 pm
Thank you so much for replying to my comments I would dearly love to beable to send those photos out to Australia and New Zealand to friends who are all within our Vindi boy association,all old sea dogs like myself and who have found themselves safe havens for their retirements,all grand gentlemenI am in one photo with my back to you after the service on board the “Discovery”far left as you look at the photo,also I am seen opposite the fellow with the flag at the cemetary(my brother )His name is Geoff Andrews and he was a Lt Commander in the Fleet Air Arm ,having served on H.M.S Thesues in Korea, Bornio,and Aden when the troubles were there, He then came back to the Uk to train American and Norweigen forces in helicopters and mini hydroplanes ,retired from the flying part after 30yrs and took up maintainence of the helicopters with a private firm,A decorated man what for he never divulged to me or any body else as far as I know I do have photos taken by myself at the ceromonies which I could pass on if you wish I would have to bring them up and scan them for you Regards Bob Andrews
November 18th, 2009 at 9:22 am
For Mr Robert Andrews:
This is very interesting, Robert. Tell us about the Vindi Boy Association. Why is it called Vindi Boy? And we had assumed that your brother is still alive, was on Discovery for the Murmansk voyage Des Cox arranged and is in one or more of the photographs. Are we right or wrong on each of these assumptions?
In terms of the photographs – do you know if the people o Australis and New Zealand to whom you want top send the photographs are on the Internet and use email? This information will help us to work out how best we can help you.
November 19th, 2009 at 11:37 am
Newsroom I have the e mail addresses of three lads who would be very interested in Des Cox article on the Arctic Voyage plus photos if possible,Please mention my name as they will be wondering where it has come from
MOONRAKER-NZ@EXTRA.CO.NZ ( Napier NZ)
LAT34SLONG150E@GMAIL.COM (N.S.W.AUS)
TCASTLETON@PARADISE.NET.NZ. (WELLINGTON N.Z)
These Vindi boy lads all help run the Vindi boy sites in there respective countries and arears,They also have men ther who have been on the Arctic Convoys but were unable to take the voyage through either ill health or distance.For more info on our web site bring up VINDICATRIX on the GOOGLE address bar and all will be revealed Regards Bob
February 17th, 2010 at 12:24 am
I saw from an article about the documentary you are making
My father who died 10 years ago was a merchant shipman on the Artic convoys
he was on the P18 and also on several ships that were torpedoed just outside of Belfast
He was given a book of prints of Russian Paintings as a thankyou for volunteering at a concert at the end of a convoy when there was no regular piano player present.
I do not have any more details of this but do have a number of photographs of various ships and destroyers that I do not have any details about .
Although I live in Australia I shall be in Uk from 11 March and would like to share any of these with you if you need any material
I would also like to know more about the convoys as Dad never thought he could talk about them they were so horrific to endure .
He was awarded the Artic Star to show he was on the convoys and had cataracts which the doctors said came from the snow in the sunlight , how it damaged his eyes
His name was Charles James Gray and his nickname was Lofty and he was an able seaman on electronics
If anyone has any more information I would be very please to hear about him
Barbara Best
February 21st, 2010 at 12:25 am
Hi
my dad ( Don Tench ) took a lot of photos on CAMPANIA in world war 2.
this year we are going to copy them would any of you guys want some
February 21st, 2010 at 8:51 am
For Mr K Tench: We’re about to put you in touch with Roy Elwood, a distinguished photographer who served on convoy duty on HMS Zambesi and is collecting and digitising naval photographs from World War II, particularly merchant ships and escorts in the Arctic convoys.
We’re sure he would be very interested in your photographs – as would we through him.
For other readers: HMS Campania (D48) was a Royal navy escort aircraft carrier in World War II. She was a convoy escort doing anti-submarine work in the Atlantic and Arctic. In December 1944 her Swordfish aircraft sank the German submarine U-365 while the she was escorting the Arctic Convoy RA-62. We think that this convoy ran from Murmansk to Scapa Flow.
After the war, she was a floating exhibition hall for the 1951 Festival of Britain. Then she saw service of a very different kind, as the command ship for the 1952 Operation Hurricane, testing the prototype of the British atomic bomb at the Monte Bello islands off Western Australia.
She was built at Harland & Wolff shipyards in Belfast, Northern Ireland. Interestingly, when she started building in 1941 she was to be a refrigerated cargo ship for transporting lamb and mutton from New Zealand. In need of ships, the British Government requisitioned her and she was completed and launched as an escort carrier, entering service in early 1944.
March 24th, 2010 at 1:58 pm
You should talk to my father george Smith who was on the Rusian conveys and spent a few months as a special telegraphist in Siberia in WW2. His stories are amaxing. the ship he sailed on was torpedoed onits way back to UK and he and his code sending mates were seconded for about 3 months inthe arctic circle under Stalin…. let me know if yr interested in more inforamtion via my e mail paulenesmith@hotmail.com